Hadrian’s Wall #2

Bill and I were exhausted walking all over Lindisfarne Island and then up and down Bamburgh Castle.  The sun doesn’t set in England right now until after 9:00 p.m.  As we headed towards Durham and our hotel for the night I suggested to Bill that we visit Hadrian’s Wall.  Bill has traveled extensively in the UK but never seen Hadrian’s Wall.  For a lover of Roman history it is required viewing.  Reluctantly he said ok as he is definitely a trooper but his legs and feet hurt as did mine.  As we approached the youthful enthusiasm returned as I saw Bill searching for the wall in the distance as I drove through the beautiful hills of northern England.

We stopped by the National Trust site which is where they give guided tours.  They were closing of course and we found out what time they opened in the morning.  Bill was disappointed by now so I decided I would find part of the wall for him to climb.  From my first trip last fall I remembered an area nearby.  We parked the car on the side of the road and started walking – although we couldn’t see the wall for the hills I had a good idea where it was.

We walked down a country lane about a mile and then I saw it on top of a hill.  Only sections remain as over the centuries people have used the stones to build houses, roads and fences.  You can also see stones littered about both sides of the wall on the ground buried now in the dirt by time and weather.  We went up the hill towards the remnant.  Our knees ached so bad from the long day that we felt like there were knives digging into them.  My feet hurt but no way I was going to miss Hadrian’s Wall on this lovely, clear day which is very unusual for England.

We made it and Bill got to see the beautiful site.  For those who have never seen the Wall it is amazing that 2,000 years ago Romans built a wall that averaged 13 feet high and 8 feet wide across 60 miles of open land.  In addition there were forts and living quarters along the walls whose remains can be seen today.  Part of the beauty of the wall is how it was built on hills – it appears like the spine of the landscape and as it snakes its way across the highest ridges.  To stand on the remnant of that wall and look over the land that even the Romans were unable to conquer is breathtaking.

More about the Romans at some other time but we are still significantly influenced by this empire that died almost 2,000 years ago.  Its engineering, values, roads, architecture, legal system, etc.  After the fall of the Roman Empire came the dark ages where mankind actually moved backwards in terms of technology and living standards.  Under Roman rule there was largely peace and prosperity but the next 1500 years Europe fell into war, famine and disease.  How the Romans were able to accomplish this is one of more interesting things I have discovered on my journey through the UK.

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Reenactment at Caernarfon Castle in Wales

Turn the volume up but I think the iPhone did a good job quality wise.  This was really quite fun and entertaining.  Hope you enjoy.

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It is hard to imagine that I did and saw all of this in one day.  Most historical sites are closed November through March so I am back on the road again.

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360 View from the Top of Conwy Castle

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I took the video on my iPhone.   It is amazing how shaky I am.

It may take a second to load but you will get a panoramic view of what it looks like from the top of a beautiful castle in Wales.

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Church Island – Anglesey, Wales

I crossed the bridge from mainland Wales to Anglesey.  It is an island off of the northwest coast of Wales.  You have to look close because it looks like one land mass divided by a river.  Anglesey is where Beaumaris Castle is located (see pictures below under Castles in North Wales).  The scenery here is spectacular.

On my way to Beaumaris Castle I looked out my window and saw an island grave yard.  It was hard to see through the trees but on my way back from Beaumaris Castle and before last light I took the trek down the hill, through the trees to a walkway onto this island.  It is really nothing more than a big hill with tombstones and a church.  The church dates back to the 1500s although the plaque on it says 605 A.D.  There has been a church on this site for that long.

On top of the highest point on the island is a monument to those in the area who died in WWI and WWII.  It actually shows where the soldiers were killed or died which was different than I had seen.  Almost every town and church across England has a monument like this.

This area is old.  The Romans were in this area and left Wales and England as their Empire was crumbling  just before 400 A.D.  Most of the tombstones don’t go back more than 150 years so I think this was an island that was used for church and reflection for a long time.  Although it looks like a river it is actual an inlet of the sea and as you can tell from the pictures it is low tide.

I thought as the sun went down it might be kind of spooky to be on a island with no one around in a graveyard but in fact it was beautiful.  I was fortunate to get a great day for my adventures.  I left feeling satisfied.

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The Castles of North Wales


I try to spend some time reading about the historical places prior to my visit.  A castle is only a stone building until you know the story.  Few castles, if any I have visited, were ever lived in by a King or Queen.  Why then build such an elaborate building?  That is what makes these trips so interesting.  However no matter how much I learn before I go there is always more to learn when I am there.  After reading all the material from the trip I wish I could go back and see all that I missed.

As I have written previously, Great Britain uses post codes.  They are like zip codes except these 6 alpha numeric sequences put you right at someone’s door.  It is much more efficient than our lengthy street addresses.  I don’t bother to even look at maps anymore but instead type the post code into my Sat-Nav (GPS to Americans) and take off for my adventure.

I live in the Manchester area which is in the north part of England (London is south east).  My trip to Wales is almost due west and it takes me through the historic town of Chester and the west coast across from Ireland.   The highways are not as fully developed as in the U.S. due to other forms of mass transportation being available like trains and buses.

I almost turned back as I left Manchester.  It was Texas raining outside with large downpours and water collecting on the highway.  Without an umbrella I knew this could be a bad day.  Fortunately the clouds broke and a beautiful day appeared.  George Strait and Garth Brooks were driving with me.  Technology and abandoned ruins are amazing.

 The History Behind the Castles of North Wales

After the Battle of Hastings in 1066 William I, also known as William the Conqueror, set a course to bring as much of the island as possible under Anglo-Norman military rule.  That included what is today England in the south, the midlands and in the east.  Wales is to the west and Scotland the far north.  The original people of Wales were Celtic Britons who lived in the midlands of England and were pushed west by the invading Saxons from Europe.  Wales developed into of a number of small kingdoms.

In 1283 King Edward I first envisioned building a ring of castles to north Wales to serve as administration centers and to house military garrisons.   At an extraordinary expense and an unprecedented use of manpower he started building a series castles in northern Wales.  This period of massive castle construction was a direct result of a victorious second campaign to subdue the Welsh prince Llwelyn Gruffudd.   The conflict before the two invasions of Wales were the result of conflicts years early between King John, his successor Henry III and the princes of Wales notably Llwelyn.  After Prince Llwelyn Gruffudd’s death in 1240 Henry III moved quickly to exploit the dissent between his two sons; Gruffudd, who was the legitimate heir, and Dafydd who had proclaimed to be the sole heir.  Henry III prevailed over the two sons.  During the follow low ebb for the Welsh royalty there was the emergence of a powerful new prince, Gwynedd, Llywelyn a Gruffudd, the grandson of the eldest Llywelyn.  This young prince continued the fight and was so successful that Henry III had to formally recognize him as the Prince of Wales.

After the ascension of King Edward I to the throne of Eng land in 1272 the Welsh prince refused to give homage to the English king which resulted in the war of 1276-77.   Prince Llywelyn was forced to negotiate surrender and gave up lands that are now western England.  In addition he gave up a huge sum of money but was able to keep the heart of Wales; Snowdonia and the island Anglesey were retained by the Welsh.

The once proud and independent Welsh bristled under English rule for the next few years.  Llewlyn’s treacherous younger brother Dafydd led a surprise attack on an English garrison and forced his older brother to remain faithful to the Welsh or side with the hated English.  Lleywelyn sided with Dafydd which led to a national revolt.  Once again King Edward invaded Wales with an army that included 800 calvary and 8,000 foot soldiers.  It was an impressive army by 1292 standards.

Progress for an English victory was slow as the Welsh relied on guerilla warfare in the mountains.  Llywelyn was killed in a skirmish and King Edward was able to focus his attention on his brother.  It was during this time that King Edward first planned the construction of Caernarfon, Conwy and Beaumaris castles.  In 1283 the fugitive Prince dafydd was captured.  He was condemned to be drawn, hanged, disemboweled, and quartered.    His head was displayed beside his brother Llywelyn’s on the gate of the Tower of London.

Edward I’s fearsome iron ring of colossal fortresses represents Europe’s most ambitious and concentrated medieval building project, designed to prevent the recurrence of two massively expensive military campaigns.  The second Welsh uprising in 1282 was also ultimately unsuccessful and Edward, determined not to have to fight a third time for the same land, set about extending his ring of fortifications in an immensely costly display of English might.  The castles at Caernarfon , Beaumaris and Conwy were all designed and built during this period fro 1283-1295.

King Edward sent for his master mason and architect James from St. George to lead these building efforts in north Wales.  James from St. George would later become recognized as one of the greatest castle builders in all of Europe after building castles that were considered impregnable and beautiful.  With great expense and effort, workers were brought from all over England to build as many as eight castles in northern Wales including Conwy Castle which was to serve as a resident of the King and a center of administration for the King in north Wales.

(CLICK ON THE PICTURES BELOW TO GET A LARGER VIEW AND GET A DESCRIPTION)

Caernarfon Castle

Caernarfon occupies a special place in Welsh history.  From Roman times, pre-400 A.D., it has been a site of strategic and symbolic importance.  King Edward I chose this site in part because of the legendary tale of Roman Emperor Magnus Maximus known to the Welsh as Macsen Wledig .  When Maximus left Britain around 383 A.D. he took all his Roman troops and transferred authority to local figures.  There are those who believe to this day he is the father of all Welsh royalty.   Lianbeblig church was built on the location of the old Roman fort.  It continues today as the mother church of the town of Caernarfon where Christian worship has been maintained since fifth century.

Caernarfon was the first Welsh castle built as a single entity; town and castle.  It served as the administrative and judicial center of north Wales.  Built to reflect is special status, the angular towers and color-banded walls recall the roman walls of the imperial city of Constantinople.  In 1284 the Prince Edward, son of King Edward I, was born in Caernarfon and became the first English Prince of Wales.

In 1284 the Welsh rebelled and overran and severely damaged the city walls necessitating a massive repair effort.  Caernarfon was besieged by Owain Glyn Dwr in 1403 and 1404.  By 1538 it was in ruin and need of repair.  Yet the walls remained sound and during the Civil War (1642-48) Caernarfon was held for the King until 1646 when the castle was surrendered to the parliamentary forces.  In 1660 the government ordered the castle destroyed but the command was never carried out.

In 1911 the castle was used for the first time to crown the Prince of Wales who became King Edward VIII.  Charles, Prince of Wales, and later Prince William were both granted their titles in ceremonies held on the inner grounds of the castle.

Conwy Castle

Conwy Castle is exceptional not only for the grand high towers and curtain walls but also for its excellent state of preservation.  The castle contains the most intact set of residential buildings left by the medieval English monarchy in Wales or England.

Unique about this castle was the planning of a walled city as well as a castle.  The inner castle was to house the King’s garrison, his government officials and his own residence.  Also built was a walled city adjacent to the castle.  A location along the Conwy River was chosen.  The castle was built on a foundation of rocks and the walled city on land next to the castle on a sloping hill leading up from the river.

What makes Conwy Castle to wonderful today to visit is that the castle and the city remain architecturally much as they were when built.  The castle has been in ruin since the need for castle fortresses in Wales ended in 1485 with the crowing of Henry VII as the King of England.  Henry was the grandson of a royal Welsh family, the Tudors.  The city within the castle walls has remained since the castle was first built.  As part of King Edward I plan to stabilize Wales, only Englishmen and English businesses were allowed within the gated walls.  People were enticed to move to Wales from England with generous grants and reduced taxes.  This separation was despised by the people of Wales but over a period of time commerce encouraged a natural transformation of the city to a Welsh city.  There are a number of old buildings such as the abbey and several businesses that remain from the Elizabethan era, 1558 – 1603.  The castle was originally started in 1283 with the castle walls complete in built in 1287.

Interesting enough King Edward I only spent December and January of 1294/5 in the actual castle when another Welsh rebellion, led by Madog ap Llewlyn who was a distant relative of the princes’, besieged the castle.  The siege lasted on a couple of months as supplies ran low for the rebels and the castle was never captured.

The castle may never have been conquered but it was taken over through a trick.  In 1403 a rebellion lead by Owain Glyndwr planned to capture the castle during Easter Celebration with the garrison troops at church.  Posed as carpenters two rebels were able to kill several guards and allow Owain and about 40 rebels into the castle.  They were able to hold the castle for 3 months before a negotiated settlement was reached.  They finally surrendered on favorable terms which included full pardons to the Tudors (Welsh family that eventually ruled England for 150 years) who had joined the rebellions.  The castle was so easy to defend that 40 rebels were able to protect it against a much larger army.

By the early 17th century the once great royal castle had become dilapidated and largely unused.  However at the outbreak of the civil war in England (royalists versus parliamentarians) it was again used by the King.  It was captured after a 3 month siege by the Parliamentary army in 1646.  It was intentionally reduced to a castle shell by the Parliamentarians to ensure the King wouldn’t use it again and left in a similar state as today.  The castle was later granted to Edward Conwy whose family wanted to restore the castle but it turned out to be too great an expense.

In the 20th century it became English property again and designated one of the top historical sites, by the World Heritage Site, in all of Europe.  A Welsh non-profit has been operating the castle during the last three decades, a time of increased tourist trade as trains and highways made Conwy Castle more accessible.

Beaumaris Castle

Begun in 1295 Beaumaris Castle was the last of the royal stronghold to be built by King Edward I in Wales.  It completed the chain of fortificataions with which he had begun to enclose the north Wales region of Gwynedd in 1277.  After the death of the princes the Welsh resistance effectively came to an end and in 1284 Edward imposed a new English-style administrative system.  Beaumaris was the last of sixteen castles built or refurbished although the castle was planned as early as 1283.

Work didn’t begin on the castle until the Welsh revolt of 1295 led by Madog ap Llywelyn on the island of Anglesey.  The topography was different than at Caernarfon and Conwy.  Built on a ‘fair marsh’, the castle took full advantage of the flat site on which it was built unlike Caernarfon and Conwy.  The castle was built on the concept of “walls within walls” principle with four rings of formidable defenses.  You can see still how the taller inner towers allowed archers to shoot at invaders without hitting their own forces in the tower in front of them.

The building of Beaumaris Castle was stopped in 1330.  A survey from 1343 suggests the incomplete castle we see today is very much how it was left in 1330.  Work was abandoned on the castle as resources had to be refocused on the war between the Britain and Scotland.  Nevertheless it was sufficiently complete to be garrisoned and besieged during the revolt of Owain Glyn Dwr between 1400 – 1410.

Largely ignored by artists and travelers in search of the romantic and picturesque during the 18th and 19th centuries the castle fell into ruins and was largely ignored.  The castle was purchased from the Crown by sixth Lord Bulkeley in 1925 whom cleared the ivy-clad castle.  In 1986 it was listed as a historic site of outstanding universal value.

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Old English versus New English

My English friends would not consider what they speak as “old” nor what we speak in America as “new” but I enjoy giving them a hard time.  There are some distinct differences.  Sometimes if you choose the wrong words there is an awkward silence – they don’t know what you are saying…or you may not know what they are saying.  Here is just some of the differences.

Chip and pin – type of debit card with a computer chip on it (they do not use swipe cards in many places but you have to have a chip on your credit card.)

Money – UK uses the “pound” (5 pound note is smallest paper denomination with 1 pound coins).  It is also called the British sterling and the quid.  They are not on the Euro and it is a very sensitive issue.

Petrol – gasoline

Litre – unit measurement for gasoline/petrol in UK.  1 gallon = 4.5 litres (almost all cars are standard shift and many are diesel)

Lovely (luvelee), brilliant, fantastic  (fann tastic)– cool, awesome, great, terrific

Crisps – potato chips

Chips – French fries

Biscuit – cookie

Snog – make out or kiss

Slap – makeup

In order to be a city it must be formerly approved by the government.  There are Burroughs (areas and purely ceremonial), shires (counties), villages (small towns without a steepled church), townships and cities.

Watford gap – just north of London and separates the north (considered proper Englishman in the south) and the North (working class people with funny accents).  Was surprised to find out the difference between north and south may be a bigger deal in England than even in the north/south in the U.S.

Gardening – landscape (they all like to garden but to many Americans gardening is growing vegetables).  Gardening here is just yard work or landscape work.  The garden is typically the back yard where many will sit and enjoy the evening.

Ice/no ice – forgetting asking for ice  You will get “one” cube.  If you ask for a lot of ice you will get “two” cubes.

Popcorn (sweet or salty) – at the theatre they ask which one you want and have both.  They don’t taste exactly like movie popcorn in America.  Most theatres have ice cream and candy shops in addition to the concession stand.

Cinema – movie theater

Pub – bar or restaurant and bar (there is no a distinct difference in some pubs and American restaurant/bars and that is relatively new.  High end pubs are the same as American Restaurant/Bars but look like traditional pubs.  “Wet” pubs are the old boozer clubs where people go to drink and socialize

Diversion – detour (on street signs)

Give way – yield (on street signs)

Motorway – highway

Chemist – pharmacist

Boot – car trunk

Queue – lines or traffic

Lorrie – truck, 18 wheeler

Ring road – service road

Toilet – bathroom

To let – to rent

Satnav – GPS (direction finder)

Post code – address finder (not like zip code.  It is a series of six numbers and letters that will take you to a specific location.  It is terrific.)

Cash machine – ATM (if you say ATM they will have no idea what you are talking about)

Chili – chili pepper (very confusing in restaurants.  When you see a chili sauce in a restaurant it isn’t Tex Mex but probably some sort of sweet chili peppers and may taste like Indian food)

Jacket – potatoes

Chicken burger – two types of burgers (very few places have chicken sandwiches.  If you say “burger” they will ask if you want beef or chicken)

Lager – beer (regular beer)

Tellie – TV

Mash – mashed potatoes

Mushy peas – What it sounds like, mashed English peas.  Yuk

Curry – better know your Indian food they love it here

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An American’s Thoughts on the English

There is so much to love about England.  My ancestors called it home.  My favorite authors, J.R.R. Tolkien and C.S. Lewis, were English. Alfred Lloyd Tennyson was a favorite poet.  The musings of Chaucer, Milton and Shakespeare stirred my imagination as a young man.  It is a land full of reminders of an older time, the middle age of Europe where great stone structures were home to royalty.  It was home to the legendary King Arthur whose stories of chivalry and justice remain part of the social and legal fabric of western civilization.  The period of time known as Camelot is an example of how man can rise above the evil nature of this world and fight to preserve all things holy and good.

I have explored Great Britain from Edinburgh, in the north of Scotland, to Southport, in the south of England.   I have been to London to the east and Wales to the west.  The history of this country is much more complex than I ever imagined.  As I stood upon old Roman remains built 2000 years ago I tried to imagine what life must have been like for the Roman soldier at the northern most outpost of the Roman Empire at Hadrian’s Wall (basically divides England and Scotland).  I have explored the castles of the Angle-Saxons (German tribes) who conquered England after the Roman Empire fell.  I have seen the impact of the Normans (Vikings who were given land in France to keep them from warring on France) on society and culture after conquering large parts of England from the Anglo-Saxons.  Most of all I have tried to learn about who the people of England really are and how the differ from Americans.

Generally speaking the British are very private.  It isn’t easy for the average Englishman to open up especially to a foreigner.  So much of England is immersed in subtleties.  The English like to communicate without being obvious or naturally create a meaning within a meaning by carefully choosing their words.  It is what they say, how they say it and what is not exactly said but stated within that.  Got it?  The American culture is still developing, a melting pot of competing cultures.  England is a culture that has probably changed very little in some aspects for centuries.  Immigrants are expected to adopt the English way of life.  Part of their culture is the “stiff upper lip” that the English are known for – they take pride in remaining strong in times of trouble.  Another unique characteristic of their culture is their humor – silly, self-depreciating, cynical almost childlike to the average American.  It is how they make fun of each other and their society.  It has grown on me.

There is a hint of some collective guilt over their imperialist past.  The English empire was known as the empire “Where the Sun Never Sets”.  The size of the empire has shrunk drastically since the end of WWII.  Scotland is holding a referendum in 2013 to determine their independence from Great Britain.  Canada, Morocco, Caribbean Islands, Burma, Singapore, India, Australia, New Zealand, Pakistan and scores of small African and Middle East countries were all once or remain part of the British Empire.  Some Brits appear to view negatively the influence and power they had on the New World.  English sailors and explorers, much like the Portuguese and Spanish, brought death, disease, economic and human slavery and capitalism to indigenous societies around the globe.  Perhaps the English look back and wonder if their influence was as positive as it could have been or if resources could have been used to further local societies rather than for the benefit of the English.

The impact of WWI and WWII had on England and the entire European continent was enormous.  England was once a proud Christian nation but since the end of the great wars no longer.   Many of the regular church-goers in England attend out of habit rather than conviction.  Many Christians and non-Christians in England seem to hold to the “high” traditions of the church; moral living, charity, love, forgiveness, grace, etc.  As I tried to immerse myself in the English culture one question kept repeating in my head, “why in a country with all of these beautiful historical churches was God so hidden, or even dead?”  I went to a variety of churches and bible studies to learn more.  I attended traditional and non-traditional services in old historic churches through the English countryside trying to answer the question.  Finally, a nice elderly gentleman at a church near my apartment sat down and gave me his perspective.  He told me that the two world wars had brought so much death and destruction to England, and all of Europe, that many had forsaken God believing God had forsaken them.  According to him, English and European society has a whole began to lose their faith in a God that would allow such pain, devastation and horror.  Before you judge for yourself this statement read first and understand the atrocities committed one “Christian” nation committed against another.  Few English were untouched by the horrors of war and every aspect of British society was impacted by it.  It remains a dark part of the collective British soul today.   It is almost as if British society keeps it hidden away in some closet, hidden but always there.  They have not forgotten.

I also discovered English pride.  England is just an island a third of the size of Florida and with twice as many people as the state of Texas.  Yet it has remained an influential, global society where their history remains an important part of many countries around the world.  It is almost like the English are the patriarchs of many modern cultures.  The English like to believe their society is “advanced” or they might use the word “civilized”.   I would agree.  The English seem to respect each other’s differing opinions more than Americans. They are slow to raise their voice when angry and even their politics remain civil, at least compared to Americans.  They see themselves as an old and historically rich society.  As a country they remain more local and less global in the solutions to British issues.  Being part of the European Union has been hard on the English because of their in-bred desire to think and act as a nation rather than a collection of countries like the European Union.  Decisions that are right for Britain, regardless of the impact on the rest of the European Union, come first.  America has a federal government that holds power over the states.  The European Union is trying to get the same economic advantages, with regards to trade and commerce, that the U.S. has but Brits are not willing to allow any person or institution to be central over their government.

As a society England is more complex than expected.  The English build relaxation, friendship and social time into their lives. They love gardening, long walks and nature.  Convenience stores aren’t on every corner.  Most retail stores don’t open till 9:00 and many close at 5:30.  You may have to drive 5 miles to find a gas station.  Drive through restaurants may be 10-12 miles apart (McDonalds and KFC only).  Pubs are crowded most nights as people stop by to visit with their friends on their way home from work.   Life is very similar to America yet very different.   Slowly American influences are finding their ways into different countries through TV shows like “Everyone Loves Raymond”, “Friends” and more.  Most pubs are not the old English “boozer” pubs but are more similar to Chili’s or TGI Fridays.   It is a wonderful place, the same and very different.  Our societies are tied together in many ways yet our countries are very different as well.

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Edinburgh Castle

Edinburgh is pronounced “ed en burr oh”.  The city is built on an extinct volcano overlooking northeast Scotland in all four directions.  More than 1,000 years ago a castle was built on this volcanic rock.  There is now a road leading from the low ground called the “Royal Mile”.  You can imagine over the centuries how the village just kept expanding and moving further away from the castle hill.  Today Edinburgh is divided between Old and New Towns of Edinburgh.  There is so much history in this one location.

Above are two pictures showing the massive volcanic rock on which the castle was built over 1,000 years ago.

The first reference to Din Eidyn – fortress on the rock – is about 600 AD.  The Celts first came to Scotland from England and integrated with the barbarians of the northern territory.  Although the Romans annexed what is today England for the Roman Empire they stopped just short of Scotland as it never part of the empire.  At that time, Europe was still dominated by tribes.  The Angles were a Germanic tribe that raided Scotland and changed Din Eidyn to Edinburgh.

The oldest building on the fortress is Queen Margaret’s chapel (shown above) built by her son King David who was responsible for building the castle as you know see it in the 11th century.  It was the royal residence from 1063 to 1603 – the year that King James VI of Scotland was crowned King James I of England uniting the two kingdoms for the first time (the King James that commissioned the King James Bible).  King James I moved his residence to England ending the 5+ centuries the castle served as the royal residence for Scottish royalty.

The Royal Mile is full of interesting churches, shops, hotels, banks and other historical sites.  You can see Bill and I standing in front of what in 1645 was Deacon Brodie’s workshop, now a restaurant.  Deacon Brodie was an upright citizen by day and a burglar by night.  He inspired Robert Louis Stevenson to write The Strange Case of Dr. Jekylls and Mr. Hyde (no that isn’t a typo – it is Dr. Jekylls).    Right below that is our colleague Louis who posed next to a man who walked out of his store in his kilt.  Rather proud of it, isn’t he?

At the bottom of the Royal Mile/Castlehill Road is a shop that makes bag pipes by hand.  I asked the man to play it for me but he refused.  He might have well said, “Stupid American”.

Shown above are several pictures of the castle as you walk into it.

The castle has been the scene of many historical conflicts including the Wars of Scottish Independence in the 14th century and the Jacobite Rising of 1745 and has been besieged both successfully and unsuccessfully over the years.  There is so much history here and I have so many pictures but it is hard for me to chose the words of pics.  Edinburgh is definitely a spot you need to visit someday.

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Prince William and St. Andrews University


This is Chapel of St. Salvator built by Bishop Kennedy in 1450 on the campus of St. Andrews University.  Prince William and Kate Middleton, now Duchess of Cambridge, both attended college at St. Andrews University.  William was the first royal not to be tutored privately for several generations or longer.  He chose to go to college at St. Andrews and it is easy to see why.

The campus was beautiful and right across the street from St. Andrews castle and St. Andrews Chapel that is discussed in the previous blog.  The proximity of all this history is really amazing.  It is easy to find shops and pubs that have been open for centuries.  From the campus you can see all of these sites plus St. Andrews golf course and the North Sea.

Bill had previous business in Scotland and in addition brought his oldest son Will to Scotland to see the history several years ago.  When he and Will were touring the campus they spotted Prince Andrew near this gate.  As you can see the campus is well manicured.

This is a view of the chapel tower before entering the building.

This are pictures from the inside of the chapel.  It is small in comparison to many churches we see but it only serves the university.  It is very cool.

Believe me, these are not two choir boys I found when I was there. Bill is on the left and Louis, who works with Bill and I, is on the right.  I will treasure this picture…for the humor value.


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St. Andrews Cathedral and Castle

St. Andrews Cathedral dominated the history of the medieval church in Scotland from its construction in the 12th century until the Protestant Reformation in 1560.  A church had occupied this site since the 8th century when the relics of St. Andrews were supposedly brought here.   Sadly this Catholic Church was destroyed Protestant reformers who fought against the Catholic leadership in the 1500s.

This picture was taken facing the original altar.  You can see the stones in front of the photograph that are overshadowed by the high walls.

You are now looking at one end of the great cathedral to the other end.  This is the entrance where most would have entered.  These churches were massive in size (you can see one that is still standing previous shown in my blogs under the Manchester Cathedral) and stone columns had to be close enough together to hold up the ceiling.  If you look at the oval shaped stones still in the ground at the forefront of this picture you will see the original foundations of the columns.

As you can tell from this picture the property became a graveyard with tombstones from previous centuries.

From the ruins of the St. Cathedral you can see the ruins of the St. Andrews castle.  This castle was destroyed in the same conflict that destroyed the St. Andrews Cathedral but this time it was the Catholics who destroyed the castle, captured the renegade Scottish protestants (who were seen as English sympathizers) and burned their leader, George Wishart, at the stake.

In the background of this picture is the beach shown in the blog posted previous to this where the beach scene from the movie “Chariots of Fire” was filmed.  Right next and behind it is the oldest golf course in the world, St. Andrews golf course.

Both St. Andrews Castle and Cathedral are located on a small peninsula of Scotland on the North Sea.  This is a view from St. Andrews Cathedral showing the outer wall and the estuary that flows nearby.  As you can see it is low tide when this picture was taken.

I took a lot of pictures but the last one I will show are the remaining towers of the Cathedral seen over the walls of the church grounds.

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